Ever ordered a dress online, eagerly anticipating its arrival, only to find it pools disastrously around your feet or, worse, ends inches above your ankles? The culprit is often an inaccurate hollow to hem measurement. This measurement, the distance from the hollow of your collarbone to the desired hemline, is crucial for ensuring a perfect, custom fit, especially for formal wear like bridal gowns and prom dresses. It's far more precise than relying on standard sizes, which can vary significantly between brands and body types.
Getting the hollow to hem measurement right means avoiding expensive alterations, saving time and frustration, and ultimately, feeling confident and comfortable in your clothing. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or a first-time online shopper, understanding how to accurately take this measurement is an invaluable skill. A properly fitted garment not only looks better, but also enhances your overall appearance and allows you to move with grace and ease.
What are the best practices and frequently asked questions about measuring from hollow to hem?
Where exactly is the "hollow" when measuring?
The "hollow" in the "hollow to hem" measurement refers to the indentation located at the base of your neck in the front, right between your collarbones. It's the small dip or U-shape you can feel where your neck meets your chest.
To pinpoint the hollow accurately, gently feel the area between your collarbones. You'll notice a slight dip or indentation. This is where you should place the end of your measuring tape for the "hollow to hem" measurement. It's important to stand up straight with your shoulders relaxed in a natural position to ensure an accurate reading.
The hollow to hem measurement is primarily used to determine the overall length of dresses, especially formal gowns. By starting at this consistent point on your upper torso, dressmakers and online size guides can provide a more accurate estimate of where the hemline will fall on your body. It's a more reliable starting point than, say, the shoulder, as the exact shoulder position can vary depending on the dress's design.
Should I wear shoes when I measure from hollow to hem?
Yes, absolutely wear the shoes you plan to wear with the garment when measuring from hollow to hem. This is crucial because the hem length is determined by the shoe height; without the shoes, your measurement will be inaccurate, potentially leading to a dress or skirt that's either too short or too long.
When you measure from hollow to hem, you are determining the overall length of the garment as it will appear when worn. The "hollow" refers to the hollow point at the base of your neck, and the "hem" is the bottom edge of the dress or skirt. Therefore, the distance between these two points dictates how far the garment falls. If you take this measurement barefoot and then wear heels with the dress, the hemline will be significantly shorter than intended. Conversely, if you measure with very high heels and then wear flats, the dress will drag on the ground. To get the most accurate measurement, put on the specific shoes you intend to wear with the garment. Stand up straight with your weight evenly distributed. Have someone else measure from the hollow of your neck (the dip between your collarbones) straight down to the desired hemline. This will ensure the garment falls exactly where you want it to when you are wearing your chosen footwear.How do I measure hollow to hem on myself accurately?
To accurately measure hollow to hem on yourself, stand up straight with good posture and wear the shoes you plan to wear with the dress. Have a friend or family member measure from the hollow of your collarbone (the indentation between your collarbones at the base of your neck) straight down to the desired hemline of the dress.
The hollow to hem measurement is crucial for determining the correct length of a dress, especially for formal occasions. Because it’s difficult to reach the hollow of your collarbone and maintain perfect posture simultaneously, assistance is necessary. Using the correct shoes during the measurement is equally important, as the heel height will significantly impact the overall length of the dress needed. Wearing the right undergarments can also affect how the dress hangs and thus the hemline, so consider wearing those as well. If assistance isn’t readily available, you can attempt a self-measurement, but its accuracy may be compromised. Stand in front of a full-length mirror. Locate the hollow of your collarbone and, using a flexible measuring tape, try to measure downwards to your desired hemline. Be mindful of maintaining a straight posture and avoid looking down, as this will alter the measurement. It’s advisable to take multiple measurements and average them to minimize potential errors. However, enlisting help from someone else will yield the most precise result.What's the difference between hollow to hem and dress length?
The key difference lies in the starting point of the measurement. "Hollow to hem" measures the length of the dress from the hollow of the collarbone (the indentation at the base of your neck) straight down to the hem, while "dress length" generally refers to the length from the highest point of the shoulder (or neckline, if strapless) down to the hem. Therefore, hollow to hem will always be a longer measurement than dress length, accounting for the torso length between the shoulder and the base of the neck.
To elaborate, the hollow to hem measurement is particularly useful when determining the overall length of a formal gown or dress, ensuring it will reach the desired point on the wearer's body, especially for floor-length dresses. It's a more personalized measurement because it considers the individual's torso length, whereas a general "dress length" can be more standardized and doesn't account for variations in body shape. A shorter torso will make a dress appear longer if only dress length from the shoulder is considered. Knowing both measurements can be helpful in selecting the correct size and style of dress. A dress with a stated "dress length" may require alterations depending on the wearer’s hollow to hem measurement. Many bridal shops and online retailers request hollow to hem measurements to provide a more accurate fit, especially for custom or made-to-order dresses. Understanding the distinction ensures a better chance of finding a dress that fits well and requires minimal adjustments.How does fabric type affect the hollow to hem measurement?
Fabric type significantly impacts the final appearance and perceived length of a garment measured from hollow to hem, primarily due to differences in drape, weight, and stretch. Heavier, stiffer fabrics will hold their shape and length more predictably, while lighter, more fluid fabrics will drape and potentially appear longer due to their ability to flow and conform to the body's curves.
The drape of a fabric is a key factor. Fabrics like silk chiffon or rayon jersey have a very fluid drape, meaning they fall and hang in soft folds. This drape can add length to the hollow to hem measurement because the fabric will naturally lengthen as it conforms to the body's shape. Conversely, fabrics like stiff brocade or heavy satin have a more structured drape. They tend to hold their shape, so the measured length will be closer to the actual physical length of the fabric. The stretch of a fabric also plays a role. Knit fabrics, particularly those with a high spandex content, can stretch and lengthen when worn, potentially altering the apparent hollow to hem measurement. Furthermore, consider the weight of the fabric. A heavier fabric will pull downwards more than a lightweight fabric, potentially causing it to drape lower and thus appear longer. Therefore, when taking a hollow to hem measurement, it's crucial to consider the fabric type and how it will behave when worn. If possible, have the person wearing the garment stand naturally and adjust the fabric so it hangs naturally before taking the measurement, or account for the predicted drape and stretch of the fabric when ordering or designing.What if my "hollow" isn't clearly defined?
If you're having trouble locating your "hollow," which is the indentation at the base of your neck between your collarbones, don't worry! It's not always obvious. The key is to palpate (feel) around that area until you identify the small dip or curve where the base of your neck meets your upper chest.
Sometimes, extra tissue, posture, or a higher neckline can obscure the hollow. In these cases, gently tilt your head slightly forward. This usually makes the hollow more prominent. If you're still struggling, try this: Stand in front of a mirror and run your finger down the center of your neck. The point where your collarbones visibly start to diverge, or where you can feel a slight indentation, is a good approximation of the hollow. Don't stress over getting it *exactly* right; a slight variation of a centimeter or two won't significantly impact most dress measurements.
Alternatively, you can ask a friend or family member to help you locate and mark the spot with a small piece of tape. This can be especially helpful if you have limited mobility or difficulty seeing the area clearly. Ultimately, the goal is to establish a consistent reference point for your measurement. As long as you use the *same* reference point each time you measure, any slight discrepancy in finding the true "hollow" will be minimized when comparing measurements.
How do I adjust a pattern based on my hollow to hem?
To adjust a pattern based on your hollow to hem measurement, compare your measurement to the pattern's finished length and then add or subtract length to the pattern pieces, typically at a designated lengthen/shorten line, ensuring you maintain the original design's proportions.
When you measure hollow to hem, you are determining the distance from the hollow of your neck (the indentation at the base of your throat) straight down to where you want the hem of your garment to fall. Once you have this measurement, compare it to the pattern's finished length measurement. The finished length is usually indicated on the pattern itself or the included measurement chart. If your hollow to hem is shorter than the pattern's finished length, you'll need to shorten the pattern. If it's longer, you'll need to lengthen it. Most patterns include lengthen/shorten lines, usually a horizontal line across the pattern pieces for the skirt, dress, or pants. Cutting along this line and either overlapping (to shorten) or spreading the pieces apart (to lengthen) allows you to adjust the length while maintaining the garment's style lines and overall proportions. Remember to make the same adjustment on all pattern pieces that will be joined together, such as the front and back skirt pieces. After adjusting the pattern, true up any uneven lines that might have resulted from the alteration to ensure a smooth hem.And that's all there is to it! Measuring from hollow to hem might seem a little daunting at first, but with these tips, you'll be getting accurate measurements in no time. Thanks for reading, and we hope this helped you out! Come back and visit us again soon for more helpful guides and style advice.