How To Get Rid Of Creeping Jenny

Are you tired of battling a relentless green invader that's taking over your garden, creeping into flower beds, and suffocating your prized plants? You're likely dealing with creeping jenny, also known as moneywort. This seemingly innocent, low-growing ground cover can quickly become a nuisance, spreading aggressively through underground stems and creating a dense, tangled mat that's difficult to eradicate. It's not just unsightly; left unchecked, creeping jenny can outcompete your desired plants for essential resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients, ultimately harming or even killing them.

Controlling creeping jenny is crucial for maintaining a healthy and beautiful garden. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting out, understanding the most effective methods for removal and prevention is essential. Ignoring this pervasive weed can lead to a frustrating and time-consuming battle in the long run, so it's best to tackle it head-on with the right knowledge and techniques. From manual removal to herbicide application, several strategies can help you reclaim your garden from this invasive plant.

What are the best strategies for getting rid of creeping jenny and preventing its return?

What's the best herbicide for killing creeping jenny?

The most effective herbicides for killing creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) are those containing glyphosate or triclopyr. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it will kill any plant it comes into contact with, while triclopyr is selective and targets broadleaf plants like creeping jenny, making it safer for use around grasses.

For widespread infestations, glyphosate is often the go-to choice due to its systemic action. This means the herbicide is absorbed by the leaves and transported throughout the plant, including the roots, leading to more complete kill. However, extreme caution is needed when applying glyphosate to avoid damaging desirable plants. Spot treatments and careful application techniques, such as using a shield to protect nearby plants, are crucial. Multiple applications may be necessary, especially for established patches of creeping jenny. Triclopyr is a better option when creeping jenny is mixed with desirable grasses. It targets broadleaf weeds without harming most grasses. Similar to glyphosate, triclopyr is most effective when applied to actively growing plants. Be sure to follow the label instructions carefully regarding application rates and safety precautions. Remember that even with herbicides, repeated applications and ongoing monitoring are often needed to fully eradicate creeping jenny and prevent its return.

How can I prevent creeping jenny from spreading to my lawn?

Preventing creeping jenny from invading your lawn requires a multi-pronged approach focused on creating a barrier, maintaining a healthy lawn to outcompete the invader, and promptly addressing any creeping jenny that does appear. Focus on physical barriers, cultural practices to support a dense lawn, and diligent removal of any stray stems.

Creeping jenny thrives in moist, shady conditions, often invading lawns from adjacent garden beds or less-maintained areas. Creating a physical barrier is your first line of defense. You can bury edging made of plastic, metal, or even wood at least 6 inches deep between your lawn and any areas where creeping jenny is present. This will help prevent the plant's rhizomes (underground stems) from spreading into the lawn. Equally important is promoting a dense, healthy lawn. Thick grass growth naturally inhibits weed establishment. Over-seed bare patches, fertilize appropriately for your grass type, and ensure proper watering to encourage vigorous growth. A healthy lawn leaves less room and resources for creeping jenny to take hold. Finally, be vigilant in spotting and removing any creeping jenny that manages to cross the barrier or establish itself from seeds. Hand-pulling is effective for small patches, making sure to remove as much of the root system as possible. For larger infestations, you might consider using a selective herbicide labeled for broadleaf weeds that is safe for use on your lawn type. However, always follow the product instructions carefully to avoid damaging your grass. Consistent monitoring and quick action are essential to keeping creeping jenny at bay and protecting your lawn.

Is there a natural way to eliminate creeping jenny without chemicals?

Yes, creeping jenny can be eliminated naturally without chemicals, though it requires persistence and consistent effort. The most effective methods involve manual removal, smothering techniques, and promoting healthier, competitive plant growth in the affected areas.

Manual removal is the most direct, albeit labor-intensive, approach. This involves physically pulling out the creeping jenny, ensuring you remove as much of the roots and stems as possible. Because creeping jenny spreads through nodes along its stems that root easily, any fragments left behind can regenerate. Consistent weeding, ideally after rain when the soil is softer, is crucial. Monitor the area closely for regrowth and promptly remove any new shoots. For larger infestations, you may need to dig out the affected area to a depth of several inches to ensure you've removed the bulk of the root system. Another effective method is smothering. This involves covering the creeping jenny with an opaque material, such as cardboard, black plastic, or a thick layer of mulch (wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves). This deprives the plant of sunlight, which is essential for photosynthesis, eventually killing it. Leave the smothering material in place for several months, or even a full growing season, to ensure the creeping jenny is completely eradicated. Before smothering, it's helpful to cut the creeping jenny back as much as possible to ground level. After removing the smothering material, enrich the soil with compost to improve its quality and prepare it for planting desirable, more vigorous ground cover that can outcompete any remaining creeping jenny.

How deep do I need to dig to remove creeping jenny roots?

To effectively remove creeping jenny by digging, you need to dig down at least 6-8 inches, ensuring you remove all visible roots and stems, as creeping jenny can regenerate from even small root fragments left in the soil.

Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) is a persistent perennial ground cover with shallow, creeping roots. Because it spreads both by seeds and vegetatively through its extensive root system, completely eradicating it requires diligence. When digging, aim to excavate a wider area than the visible spread of the plant to capture any roots that may have extended beyond the immediate foliage. Carefully inspect the removed soil for any remaining root pieces and dispose of them properly, ideally in a sealed bag to prevent re-establishment.

Remember that creeping jenny thrives in moist conditions, so improving drainage can make the area less hospitable for regrowth. After digging, consider amending the soil with compost or other organic matter to improve its structure and fertility, making it more difficult for creeping jenny to re-establish. Monitor the area closely for any new growth and promptly remove it to prevent the plant from regaining a foothold.

Will covering creeping jenny with mulch eventually kill it?

Yes, covering creeping jenny with a thick layer of mulch can eventually kill it, but it requires persistence and a commitment to depriving the plant of sunlight and moisture. The effectiveness depends on the depth of the mulch, the plant's established root system, and diligent monitoring to address any escape routes.

While mulch can be an effective component of creeping jenny removal, it rarely works as a standalone solution, especially for well-established infestations. The key is creating a truly impenetrable barrier. This means using a thick layer (at least 4-6 inches) of organic mulch like wood chips, bark, or shredded leaves. You'll also need to overlap the mulch significantly beyond the visible edges of the creeping jenny to account for its spreading rhizomes. The goal is to block all sunlight from reaching the leaves, preventing photosynthesis. However, creeping jenny is tenacious. Monitor the mulched area regularly for any new growth emerging from the edges or through the mulch. Immediately remove any visible shoots by hand, being sure to dig down and extract as much of the root as possible. Consider combining mulching with other methods like solarization (covering the area with black plastic) or, as a last resort, the judicious application of a herbicide specifically formulated for broadleaf weeds. Remember that consistent vigilance is paramount for successful eradication.

How often should I treat creeping jenny to completely eradicate it?

Complete eradication of creeping jenny typically requires repeated treatments, as this plant is notoriously resilient. Depending on the control method used (herbicide, manual removal, or a combination), you'll likely need to treat affected areas every 2-4 weeks during the growing season, repeating as necessary for several months, or even a full year or more, to exhaust its energy reserves and prevent regrowth.

Creeping jenny's extensive root system and ability to propagate from even small stem fragments make it difficult to eliminate with a single application of any method. Whether you choose to use a systemic herbicide, which is absorbed by the plant and transported to the roots, or opt for manual removal, consistency is key. Monitor treated areas closely for new growth and promptly re-treat as soon as you see any signs of the plant returning. If using herbicides, be mindful of the potential impact on desirable plants in the area and choose a selective herbicide if necessary, following all label instructions carefully. Manual removal is also an option, but it can be labor-intensive and requires diligent effort to remove all root fragments. Digging up the plant and its roots is most effective when the soil is moist. After removing the visible portions of the plant, continue to check the area regularly and remove any new shoots that emerge. Be sure to dispose of the removed plant material properly, avoiding composting it, as creeping jenny can easily re-establish itself from composted fragments. A combination of manual removal followed by targeted herbicide application to any regrowth often yields the best results.

Does creeping jenny thrive in sun or shade?

Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) exhibits remarkable adaptability, thriving in both sunny and shady conditions. However, it generally prefers partial shade, where it receives some sunlight but is shielded from the harshest afternoon rays. In full sun, the leaves may scorch or turn yellowish-green, while in deep shade, growth may be less vigorous and the plant may appear leggy.

While creeping jenny tolerates a wide range of light levels, optimal growth and the most vibrant coloration are usually observed in partial shade. The balance of sunlight and shade allows the plant to maintain its lush green foliage and spread effectively without succumbing to stress from excessive heat or insufficient light. Soil moisture also plays a role; in sunny locations, consistent watering is crucial to prevent the soil from drying out, which can negatively impact the plant's health. Ultimately, the ideal location for creeping jenny depends on the specific climate and environmental factors. Gardeners should observe their plants and adjust conditions as needed to ensure optimal health and appearance. If the leaves appear bleached or burned, providing more shade is advisable. Conversely, if growth seems stunted or sparse, more sunlight may be beneficial. Monitoring soil moisture and ensuring adequate drainage are also essential for success, regardless of the light level.

So there you have it! Getting rid of Creeping Jenny can feel like a battle, but with a little patience and the right approach, you can definitely win. Thanks for reading, and we hope these tips help you reclaim your garden. Be sure to pop back soon for more gardening advice and tips!