How To Get Rid Of A Raccoon Under The House

Hearing strange noises coming from under your house? You're not alone. Raccoons, with their cunning intelligence and adaptable nature, often find cozy shelter beneath our homes. While they might seem harmless, these masked bandits can cause significant damage to wiring, insulation, and even the structural integrity of your property. Their presence also brings the risk of disease and parasites, posing a health hazard to you and your family. Ignoring a raccoon problem under your house can lead to costly repairs and unwanted health concerns, making timely and effective removal essential.

The key to successfully evicting a raccoon tenant lies in understanding their behavior and implementing a humane, yet strategic, approach. Whether you choose to handle the situation yourself or enlist the help of a professional wildlife removal service, knowing the proper steps is crucial for a safe and lasting solution. Removing the raccoon is only half the battle; preventing them from returning requires addressing potential entry points and eliminating attractants around your property.

What are the most common questions about raccoon removal under the house?

What's the best way to humanely evict a raccoon from under my house?

The most effective and humane way to evict a raccoon from under your house involves a combination of deterrents and a one-way door. First, confirm the raccoon isn't raising young. Then, make the space unattractive by using bright lights, loud noises (like a radio), and strong smells (like ammonia-soaked rags). Finally, install a one-way door over the entry point allowing the raccoon to leave but not re-enter. Once you're sure the raccoon is gone, seal the entrance permanently.

Successfully evicting a raccoon requires understanding their behavior. Raccoons are nocturnal and primarily seek shelter for safety and raising young. Therefore, timing is crucial. Evicting a mother raccoon while she has kits (baby raccoons) can lead to the abandonment and death of the young, which is inhumane and can also create further problems with decaying carcasses. Spring and early summer are typically birthing seasons, so exercise extra caution during these times. Look for signs of young, such as small kits peeking out from under your house, or listen for their high-pitched cries. If you suspect babies are present, contact a wildlife rehabilitator for guidance. Once you've confirmed it's safe to proceed, the key is creating an environment the raccoon finds unbearable. The combination of bright lights left on 24/7, a radio playing talk radio loudly, and ammonia-soaked rags placed near the den entrance is usually very effective. Change the rags every day or two to maintain a strong odor. After a few days of these deterrents, install a one-way door over the main entry point. These doors allow the raccoon to push out but prevent it from pulling back in. Monitor the door for a few days to ensure the raccoon has left and hasn't found another way in. After you are absolutely certain it’s vacated the space, permanently seal the entry point with strong materials like hardware cloth and concrete. Be sure to check for and seal any other potential entry points as well.

How do I seal up the entry point once the raccoon is gone?

Thoroughly sealing the entry point is crucial to prevent future raccoon infestations. Use robust materials like heavy-gauge hardware cloth, sheet metal, or concrete, depending on the location and size of the opening. Ensure the repair extends well beyond the edges of the hole and is securely fastened to the existing structure.

Before permanently sealing the entry, confirm the raccoon is indeed gone. One-way doors are a humane option allowing the raccoon to exit but not re-enter. Install the one-way door and monitor for a few days to a week to ensure no activity before removing it and sealing the hole. You can also sprinkle flour or sand near the opening and check for footprints leading out, but not in. It is also useful to sprinkle deterrents such as Raccoon Eviction Fluid or predator urine outside the entry way to discourage them from trying to return. If you seal the raccoon inside, it will likely cause significant damage trying to get out, or it may die under the house, leading to unpleasant odors and potential health hazards.

When choosing your sealing method, consider the material of your foundation or siding. For wood, use screws or nails to attach the hardware cloth or sheet metal. For concrete, masonry screws or concrete patch are effective. If the hole is large, you may need to fill the majority of the space with expanding foam or concrete before covering it with a permanent barrier. Pay close attention to detail, as raccoons are persistent and can exploit even small weaknesses in your repair. Smooth any sharp edges to prevent injury and consider painting or staining the repair to match the surrounding area for aesthetic purposes.

What sounds or smells will deter a raccoon from nesting under my house?

Raccoons are deterred by a combination of strong smells and startling noises. Strong ammonia-based odors, such as those from ammonia-soaked rags placed strategically around the potential entry points, are effective. Similarly, the scent of predator urine (available at some hardware or hunting supply stores) can create the illusion of danger. For sounds, motion-activated devices that emit bursts of noise or ultrasonic frequencies (inaudible to humans, but irritating to raccoons) are also commonly used to discourage them.

Raccoons seek shelter that is quiet, dark, and safe. Disrupting that sense of security can make them relocate. While the smells mentioned above create an unpleasant environment, you should also consider visual deterrents. A bright light, especially a flashing strobe light, placed near the entry point can be highly effective. Keep in mind that consistency is key. If you only apply these deterrents sporadically, the raccoon may simply wait until the disturbance stops before returning. It's also important to consider the overall environment around your property. Raccoons are attracted to food sources. Secure garbage cans, remove fallen fruit from trees, and avoid leaving pet food outside. Eliminating these attractants will make your property less appealing to raccoons in general, and increase the effectiveness of your deterrent efforts near your house.

Is it safe to try to remove a raccoon myself, or should I call a professional?

For most homeowners, it's generally recommended to call a wildlife removal professional to handle a raccoon under the house. Raccoons are wild animals that can be aggressive, carry diseases, and cause significant damage to your property. Attempting to remove them yourself can pose risks to your health and safety, as well as potentially harming the animal.

Removing a raccoon from under your house presents several challenges. First, raccoons are strong and intelligent animals. They might bite or scratch if they feel threatened, potentially transmitting rabies, roundworm, or other diseases. Secondly, mother raccoons are fiercely protective of their young, and you might unknowingly encounter a nest of babies, escalating the situation. Finally, improper removal techniques could inadvertently trap the raccoon, causing it further distress or leading to its death. Dealing with a dead animal under your house presents another set of health hazards and removal complexities. Wildlife removal professionals have the training, experience, and equipment to safely and humanely remove raccoons. They understand raccoon behavior, know how to identify entry points, and can implement effective exclusion methods to prevent future infestations. Professionals are also equipped to handle potential disease risks and ensure that the removal process complies with local wildlife regulations. By hiring a professional, you can protect yourself, your family, and your property while ensuring the raccoon is relocated safely and humanely.

How can I tell if there are baby raccoons under my house?

The most telling signs of baby raccoons under your house include hearing high-pitched chirping, chattering, or whining noises coming from beneath the structure, especially during the daytime. You might also notice a strong, musky odor in the area, indicating the presence of a den. Additionally, increased activity of the adult female raccoon going in and out of the space, particularly around dawn and dusk, is a strong indicator she is caring for young.

Raccoons typically give birth in the spring, so this is the most common time to find baby raccoons. The sounds they make are distinct from the noises adult raccoons produce. Listen carefully and try to pinpoint the location of the noises. If you can safely get close enough, look for signs of digging or disturbed insulation near the suspected entry point. Droppings near the entrance are another clue, although adult raccoon droppings are larger and more noticeable. It's crucial to confirm the presence of babies before attempting any removal strategy. Separating a mother raccoon from her young will cause distress for both, and orphaned babies have a very low chance of survival. Furthermore, removing a mother raccoon without removing the babies often leads to her causing significant damage trying to get back to them. Professional wildlife removal services often use specialized tools like infrared cameras to confirm the presence and location of baby raccoons before initiating any removal plan.

What are the legal considerations for trapping and relocating raccoons?

Trapping and relocating raccoons is often heavily regulated and may be illegal without proper permits due to concerns about disease transmission, ecological disruption, and animal welfare. Regulations vary significantly by state, province, and even municipality, encompassing restrictions on trapping methods, relocation distances, and mandatory reporting requirements.

Before attempting to trap and relocate a raccoon, it is crucial to thoroughly research and understand the specific laws in your area. Many jurisdictions require a permit from the local wildlife agency, such as the Department of Natural Resources or Fish and Wildlife Service. These permits often come with stipulations about humane trapping techniques, the acceptable release locations (which are frequently within a very limited radius or require specific approval), and the reporting of any captured animals. Violating these regulations can result in hefty fines or even legal action.

Furthermore, the act of relocation itself raises ethical and practical concerns. Raccoons relocated to unfamiliar territories often struggle to find food, shelter, and establish themselves in a new social hierarchy, leading to stress, starvation, and potential death. Relocation can also spread diseases like rabies and distemper to new areas. For these reasons, many wildlife experts recommend alternative, non-lethal methods for resolving raccoon conflicts, such as habitat modification (removing food sources and sealing entry points) and exclusion (installing one-way doors to allow the raccoon to leave but prevent it from re-entering). These methods are often more effective in the long run and avoid the legal and ethical complications associated with trapping and relocation.

What diseases can raccoons carry, and how can I protect myself during removal?

Raccoons are known carriers of several diseases that can be transmitted to humans and pets, including rabies, raccoon roundworm, leptospirosis, and giardiasis. To protect yourself during raccoon removal, wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) such as a respirator, gloves, and protective eyewear, avoid direct contact with the raccoon and its droppings, and thoroughly disinfect the area after the raccoon is removed.

Raccoons pose a significant health risk due to the various pathogens they can harbor. Rabies, a viral disease that affects the central nervous system, is perhaps the most feared. Raccoon roundworm (Baylisascaris procyonis) is another serious concern. The eggs of this parasite are shed in raccoon feces, and if ingested by humans, the larvae can migrate to the brain, eyes, and other organs, causing severe neurological damage. Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection transmitted through the urine of infected animals, leading to flu-like symptoms and, in severe cases, kidney damage or meningitis. Giardiasis, caused by the parasite Giardia, can result from ingesting contaminated water or food and leads to diarrhea and stomach cramps. During the removal process, minimizing contact with potentially contaminated materials is paramount. A properly fitted respirator (N95 or higher) is essential to prevent inhalation of airborne particles containing roundworm eggs or other pathogens. Heavy-duty gloves protect against direct contact with the raccoon, its feces, and potentially contaminated surfaces. Eye protection, such as goggles or a face shield, will safeguard against splashes or accidental contact with contaminated materials. After the raccoon is removed, the area should be thoroughly disinfected with a bleach solution or commercial disinfectant to eliminate any remaining pathogens. It is crucial to wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling any potentially contaminated materials, even when wearing gloves. It's often best to consult with wildlife professionals who are trained to deal with removals and disease prevention.

Dealing with a raccoon under your house is never fun, but hopefully these tips have given you the confidence to tackle the problem! Thanks for reading, and remember, if you find yourself facing another critter conundrum down the road, we'll be here with more helpful advice. Good luck, and may your home soon be raccoon-free!